Where to start….
I will start off this blog with a quick recap
of the past 5 months: I have been living in Bournemouth England undertaking a Master’s
by Research (MRes) at Bournemouth University. What is even more amazing about
this opportunity is that I get to study what I love most: PRIMATES. An MRes is a
unique masters experience in that as a student you have no taught courses and
you are not required to TA any classes. A Master’s by Research Degree is purely
research based and this is how I have found myself in Indonesia. A more
in-depth description on what my thesis is based on can be found in my previous
post, but all you really need to know is that I am studying gibbons (Hylobates lar), which are classified as
lesser ape. I will be studying their distributions in the forests of Northern
Sumatra.
Now to the good stuff… I have been living in
Indonesia for over a month now and needless to say it has introduced me to a
whole new lifestyle; different than the one I have become accustomed to in
Costa Rica. During this past month, I have been wandering the streets of 2 big
cities, Jakarta in Java and Medan in Sumatra. Luckily enough, I do not wander
these streets alone, but enjoy the company of two other research students, John
Abernethy and Helen Slater. They are accompanying me on this life adventure of
living in the forest amongst the wildest animals.
 |
| Manga Dua Mall in Jakarta |
There really isn’t anything special to say
about Jakarta or Medan. Jakarta is an overwhelmingly big city with a population
close to 20 million. The air quality is very poor and I found myself sick with
a sore throat throughout my entire time in Jakarta. Most of our time spent in
Jakarta was visiting government offices in order to obtain research permits. On
our free time we visited the insane number of malls located within the city.
Jakarta has over 100 malls and essentially every mall sells the same thing. However,
going to a local mall is recommended as you get to experience the craziness of
markets and you may score yourself a better deal on products as you are able to
bargain with vendors. This is a great way to integrate yourself with the local
people and it provides you with a glimpse into their daily lives and routines.
These malls are not great for finding unique gifts or souvenirs for friends and
family back home since these malls typically sell essential items such as flip
flops and other shoes, loads and loads of bags (handbags, satchels, knapsacks, luggage
etc…), head scarves (as Indonesia has the highest Muslim population in the
world), and knock-off watches from every designer.
The driving is unlike anything I have ever
seen before, and it is the same in both Jakarta and Medan. The roads are
flooded with mopeds. Lanes are simply suggestions, but really no one follows
them. On our way into Medan from the airport, we were stuck in traffic and this
gave me some time to look around. What I noticed first was that the road we were
on was designated for two lanes. However, there were 4 cars lined up width wise
across the road. Incredible! As we were in bumper-to-bumper traffic, these cars
were all waiting to squeeze through any gap that became available. The traffic
was mainly due to a rainstorm that had flooded the streets. As you can guess, the
drainage system of the roads is not the best and as a motorist you must always be
prepared to get drenched because when roads flood the water can reach up to
your knees!
Crossing the street is a whole other issue. You will consider yourself lucky if you are able to cross the street without dodging oncoming vehicles.
Traffic lights, like lanes, are physically there, however they are rarely used
to dictate the flow of traffic. Instead, you have to take a leap of faith and throw
yourself onto the street. More importantly, you hold your hand down by your
side and this indicates you are going to cross. Whatever you do, do not
hesitate or backtrack to the sidewalk, just keep on walking and the cars will
stop before they get close enough to hit you.
 |
| Helen and I in a bechak! |
 |
| Squished! |
If you are ever in Indonesia, riding in a bechak, alongside both cars and mopeds, is
an experience you cannot forfeit. Bechaks are little carriages that are made of
wood and are either attached to the side or the front of the motorbike. Just think of a westernized
sidecar, however bechaks in
Indonesia are less sophisticated and the ride is likely to be much more bumpy
and tightfitting. If you are ever standing on the side of a road, for whatever
reason, a dozen or more bechaks will stop dead in traffic and offer you a ride.
Walking on the sidewalk is unlikely to be
productive, as you have to weave through roadside venders and watch out for the
massive 3 feet by 3 feet holes in the sidewalk that are at least 4-5 feet deep.
Yes, these are frequent, so you need to be very vigilant while walking or you
may simply disappear into a hole of sewage and waste while walking behind a
friend.
Locals will love to try speaking English with you. We had one gentleman
who followed us to our destination and practiced speaking with us in English, while
remaining on his moped and moving the bike along with his feet. Individuals on
the street will always greet you with “Hello Mister/Miss” and a response from
you will likely be the highlight of their day. Jakarta and Medan are cities with few tourists and as a result you are likely to be
one of the few foreigners in the city. Consequently, you need to be prepared to
receive blatant stares from locals and you may even be pointed at as you walk
by. This is a reaction I have received almost daily during my time in Medan,
especially while eating lunch or dinner. It is difficult at times, however you
just need to carry on and pretend they are not there.
As I pass my days in the big cities waiting
for our documents to be finalized and processed, I am continually discovering
the subtle cultural customs of Indonesia. Indonesians’ social etiquette is very
different from western society and you will begin to learn and use more of these
social behaviors as you spend more time around locals.
- · The first and MOST important thing is to NEVER pass anything to anyone with your left hand. This is considered a very disrespectful gesture because your left hand is viewed as ‘dirty’ since locals use this hand to clean themselves when they use the toilet.
- Another custom is to touch your heart after you shake someone’s hand and this gesture represents that your welcome or greeting comes from the heart.
- Next, if you find yourself needing to pass between groups of individuals, it is recommended that you lower your shoulder/arm and direct your hand downwards as you pass by. This is considered an apology for interrupting the conversation.
- With reference to the language and speaking, Indonesians’ are against ‘saying no’ or the idea that something will definitely not happen. Accordingly, most of the time they will say ‘maybe’ or ‘not yet’ in response to a question or statement.
- As a traveller, you are likely to find yourself in difficult situations and as a consequence you are becoming angry or frustrated. What is most important is that you should never allow yourself to lose your temper or create a scene. If you do this, you will be embarrassing the individual you are dealing with. Indonesian culture suggests that you should refrain from humiliating any individual. This custom also suggests that you deal with the matter in a private setting, thereby allowing the individual to keep their dignity and save face. So, please remember, always remain calm even though on the inside you are about to explode!
These are just a few of the social guidelines I
have learned during my time here. I am sure I will learn plenty more and I will
pass them along as I get a chance
No comments:
Post a Comment